A Trip to Fairy Creek

Entrance to Main Camp

What’s Happening?


Early in the 2021 spring/summer season, my daughter started talking about “Fairy Creek”. My daughter, a new-age naturalist and movement therapist, often has a unique diaspora in relation to her field. I thought it was one of those instances. Then, I started getting posts from other Vancouver Island friends and acquaintances.

To my surprise, the area they were discussing is part of an old-growth forest reserve on Unceded Indigenous land. A portion of the area had been licensed out to a predominant logging company named Teal Jones. Over the last year and a bit, there have been serious land defender interventions due to the possible felling of 1000-year-old trees by the company. What really started to bring this conflict to light was the use of aggressive American-style police tactics by RCMP on protesters. The repeated use of pepper spray, physical as well as verbal intimidation, and the banning of media literally brought the issue to the forefront of the news. Suddenly, the world was listening.

I told my daughter; I needed to be there to witness what was happening firsthand. As an educator and journalist, it would be my act of solidarity for the Indigenous people, land defenders, and the trees. My schedule finally opened. The first October weekend after The National Day for Truth and Reconciliation. I had arranged with a friend, weeks back, to come across and we would go up there together. He had connections with the Rainforest Flying Squad.

As an Onlooker

As the weekend drew closer, news hit that the courts struck down any further protest injunctions put forward by Teal Jones. This happened on September 26th, the day the previous injunction would expire. Mass jubilation hit the social media feeds. Following the announcement, a celebration and honouring ceremony was planned for Saturday, October 2nd at 12:00 pm. The same weekend, I was heading across. I was so excited to be able to witness so much in one visit.

During that week’s lead-up to the trip, I read and updated myself with all the Rainforest Flying Squad news. One post mentioned a forest installation in honour of the Murdered and Missing Indigenous Women (MMIW). I knew I needed to see and document this during my trip.

MMIW Environmental Installation at Red Dress Camp
MMIW Environmental Installation Detail

Leaving on a 6:30 am ferry on Saturday, we had enough time to get to Port Renfrew area with time to spare. We made a quick stop at a viewing area right before hitting “the Port” township. Here we saw a small sample of one old-growth forest before arriving at our destination. While we were taking in the majesty of one of the trees, a young woman dressed in a brilliantly coloured outfit which included a crinoline Tutu crossed our path. She said “they were part of a support crew for the land defenders. We don’t do the tough work that they do. Instead, we go and support them in any way we can.” They were riding in a large blue bus called the Action Bus. Her demeanor was light and airy, reminiscent of her fairylike costume. Such warmth on an otherwise cool and damp day was a welcome feeling. We wished her and her crew well and motored on.

The Blue Action Bus that a Support Crew arrived in

On the Outside Looking In

Finally, we arrived at the entrance area of the protest site. Many people were milling around while a small number were busy filling a trench that was dug by Teal Jones excavators a couple of days earlier. The logging company decided to make it more difficult for vehicles to make their way up to the land defenders’ main camp which was 7 km up the road. However, today became an exception and vehicles were being allowed through the company’s main barrier gate. The primary reason for the RCMP’s latitude that day was based, in part, on who was visiting the site. A variety of Indigenous leaders would be arriving to pay respects to the Pacheedaht, Chief Bill Jones, and the indigenous and non-indigenous land defenders. They have been sacrificing their livelihoods and comfortable lives to defend the land and forests for well over a year.

Paying respect to Quatsino First Nation Hereditary Chief Sonny Wallas

The preceding ceremony held all aspects of Indigenous ceremonial traditions such as offerings to the chief, beautiful regalia, dances, and inspirational words from many leaders. After the ceremony, there was sharing of food and tea. Much of what I have witnessed during other first nation ceremonies such as potlatches. It was a truly magical day.

One More Lesson to Learn

In the end, I realized that this is one more area where non-indigenous people could take some lessons from Indigenous peoples. One lesson would be “how to look towards relationship building”. Many of the speeches discussed honouring nature as a relation like an aunt, uncle, or in most cases a mother. Showing respect towards these relations is tantamount in Indigenous culture. Protecting and respecting, not using and abusing, is the main mantra. For us all to witness a livable future, companies, governments, and other non-indigenous settlers need to recognize every living thing deserves and has the right to be respected; plants, animals, as well as humans, full stop.

Thank you to Paul Chiyokten Wagner of the W̱SÁNEĆ people within the Coast Salish Territory

Theresa K. Howell

Myself at Avatar Grove

Much gratitude and respect to the Pacheedaht and Didadaht people for allowing me onto their territory to witness this special event.